Leg 21 - Barcelona to Buffalo, NY (Day 31)

0230-Thunder storm came through and woke me up. A little more breeze than I expected and I was concerned that the stern anchor would not keep me from swinging into the dredging barge.

First I got up and just went out in my shorts to look around, I didn't like what I saw. The dredge had a bright light on deck which blinded me so it was difficult to see but it looked like the stern anchor had dragged. I went back and at least put on a rain jacket, but it didn't help my perspective. So back I went and got fully dressed.

I hemmed and hawed and finally pulled up the stern anchor which sure enough was clogged with mud. I started the engines and used them to move me around the circle of the primary rode to a position away from the barge and reset the anchor.

0300-I stood around and didn't know whether to go back to bed or not? Wasn't sure I could sleep with all the worry about the anchorage. Checked the weather for more storms but it had passed and it calmed down again. Finally I laid down again and did manage to go to sleep after much rolling around!

0430-Bolted awake to the alarm and went to work with the morning routine. No movement on the barge or tugs.

0550-Finally decided to begin pulling anchors. More T-storms in the area. Pulled up the stern anchor first which was full of gunk again. Managed to get it clean enough and just left it in the cockpit to go forward and do the primary rode. Based on wind direction, I was concerned the boat would move down on the barge before I could pull up the anchor.

I saw some guys onshore waiting to go aboard the barge. Looks like I will beat them to their morning tasks.

Got the primary anchor up but had to use the windlass to break it loose. It was also a mess but I was able to clean it after several dunkings. The boat did not drift down on the barge but I just left everything on the tramp for later just to be sure it didn't!

0605-Pulled out of the anchorage.

0630-The tugs with barges left the harbor just after I did, not sure where they are headed?

Stormy looking again today. Still swell on the lake but wind only about 10 kts. I'm under power and also running the gen to boost the batteries which got down to 11.7 volts last night with the anchor light and fridge running.

ANOTHER STORMY MORNING!

Rolled out some Genoa to see if it will stay full enough to roll out the rest. ETA 1430-1500.

0645-Wind is up some so rolled out the rest of the Genoa. May be just a puff from the rain squall overhead?

A LOT OF WAVE ACTION FOR THE WIND STRENGTH

0815-Abeam Dunkirk, NY. Trip 13 NM, OAT 68F, cabin 70F.  Still big swells from the west (3'-4'), boat is surfing from time to time. Don't know what is causing them since the wind is only about 10 kts. I'm still a little down today, partly because of the weather, partly due to the grounding last night. The trip has had many good stretches but it is also one of the most problem plagued trip I have ever made. I may look at it differently once I get some rest.

0845-Wind to 18 kts now, have jibed several times due to wind right on the stern. Same problem yesterday. Still rain showers around. It seems like other than the first leg to Put In Bay, the passages on Lake Erie have all been rough and squally. A kayaker last night mentioned to me he has never seen anything like it. He compared it to weather in September. The good part is all the wind and waves are pushing me along at 6.0 kts plus.

0930-Distance to waypoint (DTW) is 24.4 NM which is the entrance to the outer breakwall at Buffalo.

1000-Swells are getting larger. Passed a trawler west bound and saw a small fishing boat...why is he out here??

Well the CB is not retracted tight as I thought and slaps the bottom of the boat from time to time.

The port winch is in need of maintenance. It will not turn easily when not under load.  Starboard is okay. Hopefully someone can do that type of work in Buffalo? Just another problem!

Boat is now surfing a lot. Not a comfortable feeling. SOG 5.7-6.0 kts. Trip 23 NM, over half way!

WAVES ARE HARD TO CATCH WITH A CAMERA!

1100-Had bagels and cream cheese for an early light lunch. Swells continue to build, winds 18 kts plus. Lots of wave for the wind.  Surfing now up to 8.5 kts or more. I can now see the high rises of Buffalo 15 NM away.  SOG 6-7 kts, unless surfing. The lake narrows as I approach Buffalo so I expect it to get worse.

1200-Swells to 6' now, wind up to 22 kts, speeds to 8.6 kts when surfing. ETA moved up to 1400. I'm hoping it is quieter behind the break walls!

1230-Called the marina about the tie up, but directions were pretty sketchy.

NORTH BREAK WALL ENTRANCE

LIGHT HOUSE AT BUFFALO RIVER ENTRANCE

1430-Docked at Buffalo River Marina. Less than desirable tie up.  Short dock, lots of metal structure, and debris floating on the water (as in logs).  Right across from Navy Pier downtown.

NAVY PIER ACROSS THE RIVER

They wanted me to tie up broadside in a rather short space between two docks in an upwind situation. I declined and after much wrangling went to a plan B which involved backing into the dock. I never do this unless I have to!

NOTE METAL BULKHEAD MATERIAL
HARD ON PLASTIC HULLS!

The place if very rough, no electricity at the dock. There are stations but they are not connected? Had to borrow a 200' cord to go to a light post. However everyone else had done the same thing so there was no room at the inn for another connection. I finally had to go ask for an adapter, which they provided but it wouldn't work due to the fat heads on the cords. I finally moved about half a dozen cords around in a combination that worked, however I had to take my knife to the owners cord to make it fit! Now I have power to the boat but water will be another problem! I'll tackle that later.

WiFi is about as bad. You can get it if you go set on a bench outside the office. I figured I could pick it up from the boat with my booster. I can but it is very weak. We'll see if I can upload pics. Would not recommend this place based on the amenities. I had to drag a large chunk of driftwood over the dock into another pile because one of it's branches was hitting the boat!  

Ridiculous, where is the summer clean up crew? I'm sure they can get the mast done just fine, but everything else is second or third rate, and I haven't looked at the rest rooms yet! They must have written there own Active Captain comments.

Some evening entertainment for the concert crowd across the river:

DON'T KNOW HOW THEY DO THIS!

TAKING A DIVE!

Stats: Trip 44.52 NM, WT 75.3 F, Total Log 7617.1 NM, Max Speed 8.73 kts, Max Wind 22.5 kts.  Total Great Lakes 813.1 NM

GREAT LAKES ROUTE
TOTAL DISTANCE GRAND MARAIS, MN TO BUFFALO, NY 813.1 NM

Leg 20 - Conneaut, OH to Barcelona, NY (Day 30)

0400-Got up before the alarm. Too much anticipation! Wind forecast is stronger than I had hoped, could be a real ride!

0545-Finished breakfast, even did dishes since I was so early. Started up the furnace for awhile since it was still 64F in the cabin.

0600-Walked over to the office to turn in my card key. Will delay one hour based on the harbor master's recommendation. He thought the line of T-storms would move through by that time. However, there is a stationary front just to the south so I think they may just continue to re-generate.

0700-Waited an hour, some change but not much movement.  They are just cooking in place!

0745-Finally decided I was going to go, regardless. I am loosing too much time! Put on all my rain gear and set off.  A couple of horns blasted in the harbor as I left, not sure if it was goodbye, or not?

0800-Outside the harbor the wind picked up from the south so I rolled out the Genoa for a boost, wind will be off the stern today so no main since it tends to block the Genoa which is the larger sail. 3' to 4' leftover swells from the west too. SOG is 5.7 kts. Hope the wave action backs off some.

0830-Fired up the furnace again to help with the humidity.  OAT 61F, cabin 67F.  Lots of surfing in the NW swells.

0945-Trip 11 NM, SOG 6.0 kts., Genoa with engines @ 3400 RPM, trying to make up some time lost.  OAT 64F, Cabin 70F. Turned off furnace. Sun starting to break through. 13.7 NM to the turn at Presque Isle.

1130-Passing Erie, PA (Presque Isle).  PA only has a short stretch in this area along the lake. Holding off lunch until I pass the Presque Isle Light and am on the new course.

PRESQUE ISLE LIGHT-ERIE, PA

1215-Passed the Light, ETA is about 1630.  Still motor sailing, 6.0 kts w/3100 RPM. Wind is up some.  Put leftover pizza in the oven and topped the fresh water tank from the lake.

1315-Finished lunch, seas have not flattened as hoped, wind is up to 15-18 kts, or more. Seas also up some. Listening to satellite Classic Radio. Tentatively plan to anchor.

Don't understand the swell, the wind is not that strong to create this much swell? Some are almost 5 feet.

CAN'T REALLY SEE THE SEAS, CAMERA CAN'T GIVE A GOOD PERSPECTIVE, BUT YOU CAN SEE THE WEATHER

1415-Going by Freeport, PA which is the border with NY. Getting closer to the end of this part of the trip in Buffalo. SOG up to 6.4 kts at times so making good time but a lot of surfing going on in the bigger waves. I'm tired already, but it will have to wait.

Got woke up in the middle of deep sleep again last night. This time someone was towing in another boat that broke down and as they slowed in the harbor, the towed boat swung around and was going to hit my boat so the guy jumped on my bow and pushed his boat off. Of course this woke me and I couldn't figure out what just happened! Got dressed to go out and look but couldn't see anything in the low light. Don't think he hit the boat. More disturbed sleep!

1615-Entered Barcelona Harbor, very narrow in the big swells. When I finally got into the calm of the harbor I noticed the dredging barge was parked.  Tried to go around him in what was marked as 7' of depth.  I saw some shallow depths and pulled up the CB and tried to get back toward the barge more but went aground. I am pretty sure the CB pin sheared again!  I was so disappointed!

I had pre-planned my entry to Barcelona in great detail since I knew there were shallow depths in the harbor. I had looked at the aerial photos and saw where three sailboats were anchored and pre-planned my sight lines to ensure I went right to the center. It wasn't to be! The harbor chart was not accurate.

A guy on shore yelled to tell me what I already knew, it was shallow where I was! He made a suggestion on where to anchor so I ended up right next to the barge where they recently dug out the mud. I felt pretty good going to Buffalo tomorrow with everything pretty much back running right, until now! It is hard to just relax this evening. But one good thing is, I have good internet!

BARCELONA LIGHTHOUSE

2015-I put down the dinghy to look at the centerboard and it is in the full retract position, it did not shear the pin. There must be damage to the actuator itself.  The good part is it seemed to fully retract so it should not slap the bottom of the boat like it does with a sheared pin.  Since it is made of carbon fiber it floats on the surface. With a sheared pin it has a tendency, in rough water, to slap against the top of the slot which is annoying. It responded to a retract selection, but will not extend. Another problem!  

Stats:  Trip 48.27 NM, WT 76.8F, Log 7572.6 NM, Max Speed 7.94 kts, Max Wind 19.7 kts.

Lay Day 2 - Conneaut, OH (Day 29)

0430-Woke up on my own, got up early to decide whether to go or not go.

0600-Finished morning routine, went over to pay up balance of bill and talk to harbor master. Waves still coming over the breakwater wall. Wind with NE component, so on the bow, not desirable! So I waited.

0900-Final decision made not to go but to extend the stay here. Wind did diminish some and waves will follow. Ultimately the wind is supposed to go west which will help. But wind is supposed to pick up again about 1400. Could go but instead of a shorter leg today, will go for a longer leg tomorrow and cut the legs by one leg to Buffalo.

HERON BLENDS WELL WITH BACKGROUND

1000-Decided to take a nap after a snack. Read my book and fell asleep. First nap in recent memory!

1130-Got up and sent an email to Buffalo River Marina with ETA and requesting last minute instructions.

Route will now be Barcelona, NY then direct Buffalo after that. Hopefully weather will cooperate.

1330-Warming up a couple slices of pizza from last night's dinner left overs. I saved another couple slices for tomorrow lunch. Sun finally came out again! Wind has dropped, more like it should be. I think I will be glad I waited. Tomorrow the wind and seas should be more favorable in direction.

1630-Finished one book and started another. Went up to get some gen gas but nobody home...strange hours!

Will make steak dinner tonight (my last). Starting to run out of food at about the right time.

The "Looky Lou's" keep filing by. Evidently the harbor is THE place to car cruise for the locals. The boat adds an attraction.

1715-Read some more. Then prepared dinner and started the grill.

1800-Ship departed the harbor. Had steak, baked potato, hot roll, and red wine for dinner. Washed the dishes, covered the grill, and put away grill tools.

SHIP DEPARTING THE HARBOR

1830-Will hit the sack early, plan to depart at sunrise. Will likely have some wind and waves later on. At least they will be on the stern!

Lay Day 1 - Conneaut, OH (Day 28)

0700-Good long night's rest for a change! Much needed.

0900-Went up to a recommended cafe for breakfast. Super cheap!

Stopped by a convenience store for some odds and ends. Needed OJ, cereal, and chocolates for desert with red wine.

WHITE CAPS ON THE LAKE

OLD ANCHOR AND WINDLASS

THE GOOD!
IMMATURE BALD EAGLE HAVING BREAKFAST

THE BAD!
TURKEY VULTURE CHASED OFF THE REGAL EAGLE!  I WAS SURPRISED THE EAGLE WOULD GIVE WAY

THE UGLY!
THE VULTURE CALLED IN HIS FRIENDS AND TOOK OVER THE SITE.

Got wet, even with an umbrella on return. Stopped for pictures which delayed my return. Had to hustle about a block in wind blown rain. Wind in my hidey hole today up to 28 knts!

NEARLY 28 KTS IN THE HIDEY HOLE, WONDER WHAT IT WAS ON THE OPEN LAKE?

1230-Put left over BBQ in some parchment to warm up in the oven for about 20 min. at 400F. Put a couple slices of bread, pre-buttered, in the oven for 8 minutes for the sandwich. Great sandwich with chips and some red wine for lunch. 

WIND AND WAVES DO NOT STOP THE KITE BOARDER 

NOR DO THEY DISCOURAGE THE SAILBOARDER

1330-Finished one blog earlier in the day, working on yesterday's while I sip some wine and nibble on some poor tasting chocolate covered peanuts. Certainly not the quality of my Kirkland (Costco) chocolate covered almonds! Forgot one jar at home that would have been enough to finish this part of the trip. 

HARBOR CONDITIONS
STANDING WAVES CAUSED BY REFLECTION FROM PIER

THIS WAS MY ORIGINAL TIE UP LOCATION
NOTE WET WALKWAY AND STANDING WAVES

HARBOR PROTECTION WITH A CAVEAT!

THE CORNER STRATEGY

THE RESULT!
NOTE FOAM STREAKS CAUSED BY WIND YET RELATIVELY CALM WATER AT THE BOAT

1500-Port Authority guy came by and offered a ride for groceries, or whatever.  Also asked if everything was okay where I was tied up? Very gracious as everyone here has been! Went by the gas dock to settle up for my stay, but no one was home. My 2nd visit. No business today, so likely just went home!  

1645-Finished last blog, will eat out again tonight and plan to depart in the morning. Fairport Harbor is currently reporting 32 knots of wind (NW) but conditions are supposed to calm down by early morning. I expect left over wave action when I depart but wind should be down to about 15 kts. out of the NNW.  I have a short leg of about 30 NM and should be in Presque Isle (Erie, PA) by noon or just after.

1915-Back from pizza dinner.  Ate too much! But, leftovers for lunch tomorrow.  Winds shifted more NW and skies are clearing. Here is some closing harbor action:

WAVES BREAKING OVER WALL

VERY ROUGH OUT ON THE LAKE

SPRAY FROM IN HARBOR STANDING WAVES

Leg 19 - Fairport, to Conneaut, OH (Day 27)

0???-USCG came by and woke me from a dead sleep in the middle of the night! The more efficient portable Davis anchor light did not work and I had not used the standard anchor light, the USCG saw this. Of course, why wouldn't they?  The good part is they just asked me to turn on an anchor light so I wouldn't get hit by another boater. No ticket, thank goodness!  I've decided the Coast Guard is watching my satellite position and know where I am at all times!

The bad part was it was in the middle of a needed night of good sleep! Only five hours sleep the night before.

0430-Then my backup alarm went off at the regular time, forgot to turn it off the previous day! I had set the primary for 0500 to get an extra half hour of sleep. The best laid plans of mice and men!

0500-The regular alarm went off. Very humid, hazy. Made coffee, read, and had breakfast.

0630-Pulled anchor and got underway. Passed the east breakwater light. Had to dodge some fish net markers.

0730-Approaching the nuclear power plant to the east. Scubbed the cockpit area where there were some greasy foot prints left from the engine work, and while I was at it scrubbed the whole area.

NOT INTENDED, BUT IT SURE HAS AN OMINOUS LOOK!
NUCLEAR POWER PLANT JUST EAST OF FAIRPORT

CLOSER SHOT, LESS OMINOUS, BUT IMPRESSIVE!

0800-Stowed some of the anchor gear but left the rode out to dry some more. Two power boats passed east bound as I washed dishes. Water filter needs to be changed again.

1000-Two sailboats passed west bound, then soon two others passed same direction. Tried to call marina by phone. No contact. Filled freshwater tank, since I will likely be at the Municipal Pier and may not have services.

1045-Finished replacing the ceramic water filter and cleaned the one I took out. Batteries got low last night with the heat (fridge) and being at anchor with anchor light on.  Gen is running to boost the batteries and help the fridge out. Ran out of gas in the gen so refilled that and got it running again.

Approaching Ashtabula, OH harbor entrance, will be going on.

ASHTABULA HARBOR LIGHT

Got no response from my phone message so may just go to public pier.

1115-Rolled out the genoa to boost the speed, engines still running @ 3400 RPM to maintain average speed (5 kts). Fridge is not yet responding to all the power input, just too hot! ETA is just after 1300. Got all the fender boards and lines ready to use. OAT 76F, cabin 85F.

1315-Tied up at Municipal Pier, no charge for 24 hrs as long as you leave after that, but if you stay more, and I will, then you pay for the whole time...seemed odd.

Filled 2 cans of gas and dumped them in the main tanks.

1700-Went back for 2 more cans of gas to refill the spares I used for the main tanks.

Winds tomorrow leave the boat exposed to waves from the north so I'm looking for a hidey hole. The harbor is all small boats so there is no slip that will fit this boat.

THE PROBLEM
WINDS FROM NORTH ENTER DIRECTLY INTO HARBOR

THE BLOCKING STRATEGY

Found one wall that would at least be better aligned to the wind and waves, but it was privately owned by another marina. 

A QUIET AREA NEAR MY HIDEY HOLE

Manager showed me a better place around the corner from the main pier and near the small boat ramp. It will do the trick, it will be protected from the brunt of the wind and waves, see charts.

1800-Moved over to the new spot with the help of the manager and his assistant. Much better, no power or water, but safe!

THE HIDEY HOLE

THE BLOCKING CORNER

1900-Showered and went to the local BBQ. Great! Brought left overs home for lunch tomorrow.

2000-Back at the boat, T-storm passed through while I ate.  Took some quick pics and talked with some folks interested in the boat.  Lots of "Looky Lou's." Small town with mostly fishing boats so a larger cruising cat is a novelty.  Had a glass of wine, listened to some music, checked weather to finish off the eve.

2100-To bed!

Leg 18 - Beaver Park Marina, Lorain, OH to Fairport, OH (Day 26)

0430-Alarm went off, normal morning routine.

0615-Away from dock, test of new engines. So far work good. Put CB down, may get some sailing today. Prepared the main sail just in case. Stowed the mooring gear decided to not let it dry on the tramp, since I tend to forget it if I do that.

0700-Rounded Lorain Harbor Light, east bound motor sailing, full sail up. 5.2 kts at 3,000 RPM and about 8 kts of wind on the beam.

0800-SOG 5.7 kts, still motorsailing full sail. Trip so far, 11 NM.

0900-Trip 17 NM, SOG 5.3 kts, OAT 73F cabin 76F. Cleveland just off starboard bow.

Cleveland, OH

1015-ETA 1500, plan to anchor in outer harbor. Had the munchies so had an apple, cheese and some nuts.

1130-Since I ate some earlier, had some beer and chips for lunch. Try to have some healthy food at least once a day whether I need it or not!  Hot, hot, hot!  89F in and out. Wind died, no sailing. Left the main up for now.

1530-Secure in anchorage. Will have another snack.

Fairport Harbor Light

Saturday Beach Crowd, Fairport, OH
Just West of the Lighthouse

Stats: Trip 50.43 NM, WT 80.6F, Log 7488.7, Max speed 7.08 kts, Max wind 21.3 kts.

1800-Lots of rock and roll in the anchorage, it is Saturday and everyone with some type of watercraft is churning up the waters. Maybe anchoring was not such a good idea?

1900-Showered in the cockpit. A rain shower chased all the boaters in. Enjoying some red  wine before bed. Will get to be early. Got only 5 hours of sleep last night!

Leg 17-Lakeside Marina to Beaver Park Marina (Day 25)

0615-Leaving Lakeside Marina to go west 4 NM to Beaver Park Marina. Started out as a boon doggle!  First, when the boat would not back up and pulled to the left I could not figure out what was wrong, it was acting strange! Well, yeah, because you idiot!  You left a port bow line still tied to the dock!!! I completely missed it in the early morning light since it was on the opposite side of the boat from where I was tied up.  

Once I got that line off and could actually back up, I thought things would begin to look up. No! The boat would not back around to port, to go bow out. I only had reverse on the left engine and it refused to turn that way, I did not have enough rudder. So I was stuck halfway with no way to turn the boat to the left.  

I tried using different combinations I had available but nothing seemed to work except to let the boat go around to right and back out. So that is what I did. Of course it did not want to back straight but continually pulled the boat to starboard, the side with no reverse. Fortunately there was enough room to back around in a kind of a half circle and eventually get out of there. This was in a calm, not sure what I would have done with any wind!  

0700-Arrival at Beaver Park North went much smoother. I was prepared with every fender board I had and lines run. Two guys were waiting for me at the dock and I slid in with no issues. Glad to be at the dock.

NARROW ENTRANCE FACING NORTH
DAY I WAS TO COME IN THE WAVES WERE 4 FEET AND WIND WAS 25 KTS FROM THE NORTH, NO REVERSE ON ONE ENGINE, DECLINED TO COME IN, GLAD I DIDN'T!

Mike and Casey went immediately to work and removed the old engines pretty quick. They lifted them by hand. Strung all the cables and harnesses with no issues.

ENGINES REMOVED FROM WELLS

OLD ENGINES LOOKING REJECTED

1000-While Mike went back to their South Marina to ready the engines, Casey got under the boat in a kayak and after great difficulty was able to reconnect the centerboard. He said he would not be anxious to do it again!

Meanwhile Mike discovered Snafu #1, the new ignitions have a choke, the old ones didn't so the ignition panels were not the same. However, Mike came up with a solution using two switches for the choke in place of the old dead-man's switches on the old ignition plates. I previously disconnected them back in 2012 when I went to an electrical man over board system called AutoTether. Looks like Mike's solution should work.

1130-They brought over the new engines and got them ready to mount and brought in the crane to lift them into position and immediately ran into Snafu #2 which was that the mounting plates of the old engines were 1/2" too narrow. New plates needed to be fabricated and welded to the sliding mount.  

ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THE STARBOARD ENGINE, SNAFU #2 WAS DISCOVERED.  ENGINE MOUNT BOLT HOLES DID NOT MATCH THE NEW, 1/2 " DIFFERENCE!

1330-A welder was found that had the stainless steel plate and could fabricate and weld the pieces needed today. We are awaiting the parts as I type this.

DRY SLIPS
BOATS ARE LAUNCHED ON DEMAND

1500-Welder did the work, the crew fastened the mounts, crane lifted the engines into place.  Now hooking up cables and harnesses.  Although I mention only two snafus, there were at least five to six. I only listed the more serious ones.  This team was very professional and just kept on going when they were thrown a loop!

SERIOUS CRANE OPERATION

SECOND ATTEMPT AT PLACING
THE STARBOARD ENGINE

INSTALLING THE PORT ENGINE

1600-Bill, the owner of South, took me to a propane fill station so I got the spare filled. Will have plenty of propane for this trip.

1700-Finished engines, everything seems to work.  Everyone in the complex in a leadership role, and some that didn't came by to check things out and pass on greetings. Very gracious folks. The place has been in one family nearly 100 years!

1800-All panels are back in place, all gear back in their respective garages (aft cabins). Need to clean myself up and get something to eat.

1930-Went over to the restaurant to eat and the brothers who own North and South both came by to greet me one more time.  Very nice folks.  I will be out of here at O'dark thirty in the morning!